Shoe and method of making same



0. FERN May 1 1, 1943 E M A s G M. 9 K1 A M; 0 F 2 ww H m. M1 1 D F A E 0 H S 6 Y HA PR/J,

mach; Fosrcpfihhpms FOR THE 14PM A TTORNKS.

Patented May 11, 1943 SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Oscar Fern, Los Angeies, CaliL, assignor to Jules ern, Harry Sobel, and Oscar Fern. co-

partners doing business as Fern Shoe 00., Los

Angeles, Calif.

Application May 20, 1941, Serial No. 394,304

14 Claims.

My invention relates to a shoe and method of constructing the same. Among the objects of my invention is the provision of a shoe which is extremely flexible, which cushions the foot of the wearer, and which is accurately fitted to and embraces the heel of the wearer. My invention contemplates the provision of great flexibility by omitting an insole from the shoe and employing a sock lining which is not lasted to the upper and which is secured to the upper only in the fore part of the shoe. My invention contemplates the provision of a cushioning shoe by including between the upper and outsole a cushioning intermediate sole or platform of substantial depth and formed of deformable material. My invention contemplates the provision of a shoe accurately fitted to the heel of the wearer by lasting the shoe rearwardly of the shank.

A purpose of my invention is to provide a shoe which fits the heel of the wearer snugly and comiortably throughout the life of the shoe by lasting the rearward portion of the shoe and including therein a counter molded or formed in a suitable manner to the desired shape and constructed of material sufllclently rigid to insure the retention oi such shape for the life of the shoe.

Another object of my invention is to provide a shoe including a heel member extending beneath the arch of the wearer and having an arched opening in its lower surface while providing sufllcient thickness 01 the heel member beneath the arch to support the wearer without reinforcement by a metal arch member or shank. Further, it is an object or my invention to provide a shoe oi the wedge heel or intermediate sole type including a covered heel extending beneath the arch of the wearer, which may be of any desired shape and covered quickly and neatly without folds with material contrasting or barmonizing with the remainder oi the shoe. In shoes of the wedge heel or intermediate sole type. if the covering for the wedge heel is secured to the lower edge or the upper before it is placed around the wedge heel, it is impossible to draw this cover around the wedge heel neatly unless the walls oi the heel are substantia .y vertical. It the wedge heel is first covered and attached to an upper and insole, the flexibility of the shoe is lost by the resistance to bending presented by the insole and the lnturned edges of the upper lasted thereto through out the length thereof. My invention contemplates the provision or a shoe or the type employing a wedge heal, the walls of which need not be vertical and which may be neatly covered while retaining extreme flexibility in the shoe by lasting only that portion of the shoe rearwardly oi the shank to a shank member or insert extending only rearwardly oi the shank. By such lasting of the rearward portion of the upper, I am able to include a counter molded or formed to perfectly embrace the heel and arch of the wearer and constructed of leather or composition suiiiciently rigid to retaln its shape for the life of the shoe, thus insuring a perfection and retention of fit impossible of accomplishment, if the upper is not lasted.

Amongother objects 0! my invention is the provision of a shoe which is appealing in appearance and inexpensive in manufacture, as well as the provision of a method of constructing such a shoe involving few steps and capable of perromance with a minimum of skilled workmen.

An embodiment of my invention capable of providing the, foregoing advantages and others is described'in the following specification, which may be better understood with reference to the accompanying drawing in which Fig. l is a perspective view of the upper 01 the shoe of my invention with the lining and counter secured thereto;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the liner member;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the upper illustrated in Fig. 1 with the half platform cover and the liner member secured to the fore part thereof Fig. 4 is a central longitudinal sectional view of the upper illustrated in Flg. 3;

Fig. 5 is a central sectional view of the upper positioned upon a last and with the hall platform cushion sole and filler positioned thereon and with the heel portion of the upper lasted to a shank member:

Fig. 6 is a vertical sectional view of a covered wedge heel ready tor installation upon the upper illustrated in Pig. 5; and

Fig. '1 is a perspective view of the completed shoe of my invention.

Referring to the drawing, which is ior illustratlve purposes only, the numeral I I indicates an upper out. to provide the desired fit, particularly in the iorepart oi the shoe. The upper II is provided with a lining which may cover only the rear part of the upper or the entire length of the upper. I have illustrated a lining I: coverlngthe entireinnergurfaceoftheupper H and secured thereto by a row oi stitching II extending sdiaoenttheupperedgeoltheupper H and the edges of alomrd lace opening II in the upper II. A counter ll, best illustrated in Pig. Lisinstallcd betweentneupper llandthellning ll intnerearportionorthesboecatendlngiorweirdly to the arch or shank portion of the shoe in known manner. The counter II is molded or formed in any suitable manner to comfortably and snugly fit the heel of the wearer and is made of leather, fibre, composition, or other suitable material of sufficient rigidity to retain its shape for the life of the shoe.

As illustrated in Fig. l, the upper Ii and liner I! are provided with a depending portion I extending rearwardly from the shank of the shoe. Secured to the upper ii forwardly of the depending portion ll thereof is a platform cover ll. The cover is secured to the upper Ii by a row of stitching it with the outer surface of the cover II in contact with the outer surface of the upper ii. The cover if includes free end portions ll extending in overlapping relationship with the depending portion I of the upper. the free end portions ll being free of the upper for a purpose to be later described.

The numeral 2B of Fig. 2 indicates a sock lining or liner member or liner, preferably of a. single layer of fabric, having offsets Illa in its edges which act as guides in securing the liner to the inner surface of the lining I! from the shank portion forwardly of the shoe. The liner I maybesecured tothe lining l2 andupper II by a row of stitching separate from the stitching ll, but I prefer to connect the liner Ill and platform cover ii to the upper ii and lining I: by the single row of stitching II. The liner 2| is secured with its upper surface in contact with theinnersurfaoeof theliner l2,sndtherearward unsecured portion of the liner ill, indicated by the numeral If. is folded upon the secured forward portion 22. as illustrated in 1'18. 4.

The upper Ii, lining if with the cover i1, and liner-lflarethenflttodupon alastll,thelast having temporarily secured thereto an insert or tuck or shank member of leather, ilbre, or the like, indicated by the numeral 24 of Fig. 5. The lower edges of the upper ll, lining l2, and counter ll are then lasted upon and secured to the lower surface of the shank member fl, and a filler 2| is spread upon the lower surface of the shank member II between ti}; maimed edges of'the upper, lining, and coun presen a level surface. The platform cover ll being pulled downwardly so that it conceals the row of stitching II, a platform It is positioned upon the lower surface of the liner I. and preferably sec thereto by a suitable cement. The platform member Ii ismadeof amishionlncimateriai. suchas felt or the like. and extends over a portion of the shank member-14. being tapered in thickness at its rearward end to provide a smooth Joint with the shank member, and being tapered in width rearwardly of the ends of the platform cover if to permit its concealment by the forward edges of a covered wedge heel when the heel is secured to the upper.

The lower edges of the platform cover H are then turned inwardlyupon and ,asby cement, to the lower surface of the platform member It A wedge heel member ll, as illustrated in Fig. 0, is provided of such length as to include a portion 28 extending the arch of the wearer and extending beneath the heel and shank por- The wedge heel member 21 upper-surface fl curved to coniormtotheheelandawnofthewearerand a lower surface ll having therein an arch recess 8|. The wedge heel member ll isof such-dimensionsastoprovideathieknessbetweenthearch recess ii and the upper surface ll sufficient to support the weight of the wearer without deformation of the heel member ll, thus eliminatins the necessity for including in the shoe a metal shank or arch-supporting member, while at the same time avoiding the heavy and awkward appearance of a fiat-bottmned wedge heel. The wedge heel member 21 may be formed of cork or cork composition, or similar cushioning material, and preferably includes a dowel member I! of wood or the like to facilitate the firm attachment of the wedge heel member 21 to the lasted upper ii. The wedge heel member is provided with a cover I of fabric, leather, or the like with its edges turned inwardly upon and secured, as by cement, to the upper and lower surfaces 2! and 30 of the wedge heel member fl. Since the heel cover 33 is not secured to the upper when it is applied to the wedge heel member 21, this cover I! may be pulled and stretched upon the wedge heel member 21 to cover it smoothly and without folds, although the side :irallls of the wedge heel member 21 are not ver- The wedge heel member 21 with the cover I! applied thereto is then secured to the lasted upper, preferably by cement, with its forward portion extending over the lower surface of the rearward portion of the platform member 26. The forward portion of the wedge heel member 11 is tapered to provide a smooth joint with the platform member 28. As the wedge heel member fl is thus applied to the lasted upper, the free end portions ll of the platform cover II are drawn around the forward portion of the wedge heel member and secured by cement to the heel cover 83, and the lower edges of the free end portions it are secured by cement to the lower surface 30 of the wedge heel member 21 and the heel cover ll secured thereto. In this manner a ioint of good appearance is made between the platform cover I1 and the heel cover a. Instead of a wedge heel member, there may be employed a heel of any desired shape or style, and the upper il may be formed with openings at the toe or adjacent the shank, or at both the toe and shank.

an outsole member M of the desired shape and of substantially uniform thickness throushout is then secured by cement to the lower surface of the platform N, the heel member 21, the inturned edges of the platform cover ll, and the heel cover 88. Preferably the out-sole member ll is provided with a heel lift II of the desired thickness, which is secured thereto before the installation of the outsole upon the shoe. As illustrated in Fig. 'l, the outsole 8| conforms to the arch recess ll of the wedge heel member 21. o

The shoe being removed from the last, a screw it may, if desired, be inserted through the shank member 14 and extended into the dowel member 8! of the wedge heel member 21. A heel slip I1 is then secured over the heel portion of the shank member II, and the rearward portion iiof the liner fl is extended over and secured by cement to the heel slip I1 and the upper surface of the shank member 2!.

l 'rom the foregoing it will be apparent that by eliminating the lasting operations customarily employed upon the forepart of a shoe, the method of my invention has reduced the expense and skilled labor required for the construction of the shoe of my invention. It will be seen also that, since the shoe includes no insole and since the edges of the upper forwardly of the heel portion of the shoe are not lasted upon and secured to the lower surface of an insole member, I have enormously increased the flexibility of the shoe. It will now be apparent also that the inclusionof the platform member 25 which is extremely flexible provides comfort to the foot of the wearer, while not detracting from the flexibility of the shoe.

The lasting of the rearward portion of the upper to the shank member VII permits the inclusion of the counter l5 and the forming and retention of the rearward portion of the upper and the counter in a shape providing a perfect fit with the heel of the wearer, and the application of the heel cover 33 to the wedge heel member 21, prior to the attachment of the cover to the upper ii, permits the shaping of the cover neatly and without folds to wedge heels of any desired shape.

While those embodiments of the shoe and method of constructing the same, her einabove described, are capable of performing the objects and providing the advantages primarily stated. my invention is not restricted to such embodiments, but includes departures therefrom coming within the scope of the claims which follow.

I claim as my invention:

'1. In a slice, the combination of: an upper; a liner in said upper having a heel portion and having a forward portion with its edge turned downwardly in contact with the inner surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank; a counter in the heel portion of said upper; a half platform member of cushioning material; a platform cover with its outer surface in contact with the outer surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank and with its lower edge turned inwardly upon said half platform member; a row of stitching connecting the contacting portions of said upper, liner, and platform cover; an insert extending from the heel forwardly of the shank and under said heel portion of said liner, said upper rearwardly of the shank and said counter being lasted .to said insert; a filler on the bottom of said insert between the lasted edges of said upper; a wedge heel member having in the lower surface thereof an arch recess, said member being of a thickness above said recess adapted to support the wearer; a covering for said heel member extending around the sides thereof and secured to the upper and lower surfaces thereof; means securing said heel member to said insert, the rearward portions of said platform cover overlapping and being secured to said covering for said heel member; an outsole secured to the lower surface of said heel member and said half platform member; and a heel lift secured to said outsole member.

2. In a shoe, the combination of:- an upper; a liner in said upper having a heel portion'and having a, forward portion sewed to said upper with its edge turned downwardly in contact with the inner surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank; a half platform member of cushioning material; a platform cover sewed to said upper with its outer surface in contact with the outer surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank and with its lower edge turned inwardly upon said half platform member; an insert extending from the heel forwardly of the shank and under said heel portion of said liner, said upper rearwardly of the shank being lasted to said insert; a filler on the bottom of said insert between the lasted edges of said upper; a wedge heel member having in the lower surface thereof an arch recess, said member being of a thickness above said recess adapted to support the wearer; a covering for said heel member extending around the sides thereof and secured to the upper and lower surfaces thereof; means securing said heel member to said insert, the rearward portions of said Platform cover overlapping and being secured to said covering for said heel member; and an outsole secured to the lower surface of said heel member and said half platform member.

3. In a shoe, the combination of: an upper; a liner in said upper having a heel portion and having a forward portion sewed to said upper with its edge turned downwardly in contact with the inner surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank;

a half platform member of cushioning material;

a platform cover sewed to said upper with its outer surface in contact with the outer surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank and with its lower edge turned inwardly upon said half platform member; an insert extending from the heel forwardly of the shank and under said heel portion of said liner, said upper rearwardly of the shank being lasted to said insert; a filler on the bottom of said insert between the lasted edges of said upper; a wedge heel member including a dowel member; a covering for said heel member ex tending around the sides thereof and secured to the upper and lower surfaces thereof; means extending into said dowel member and securing said heel member to said insert, the rearward portions of said platform cover overlapping and being secured to said covering for said heel member; and an outsole secured to the lower surface g: said heel member and said half platform mem- 4. In a shoe, the combination of: an upper; a liner in said upper having a heel portion and having a forward portion sewed to said upper with its edge turned downwardly in contact with the inner surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank; a platform member of cushioning material; a platform cover sewed to said upper with its outer surface in contact with the outer surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank and with its lower edge turned inwardly upon said platform member; an insert extending from the heel forwardly of the shank and under said heel portion of said liner, said upper rearwardly of the shank being lasted to said insert; a wedge heel member having in the lower surface thereof an arch reoess. said heel member extending beneath said platform member; a covering for said heel member extending around the sides thereof and secured to the upper and lower surfaces thereof; means securing said heel member to said insert, the rearward portions of said platform cover overlapping and being secured to said covering for said heel member; and an outsole secured to the lower surface of said heel member and said platform member.

5. In a shoe, the combination of: an upper: a liner in said upper having a heel portion and having a forward portion secured to said upper with its edge turned downwardly in contact with the inner surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank; a platform member of cushioning material; a platform cover secured to said upper with its outer surface in contact with the outer surface of said upper adjacent the lower edge of said upper forwardly of the shank and with its lower edge turned inwardly upon said platform memher: a shank member extending from the heel forwardly of the shank and under said heel portion of said liner, said upper rearwardly of the shank being lasted to said shank member; a wedge heel member; a covering for said heel member extending around the sides thereof: means securing said heel member to said shank member, said cover and said covering being secured together in overlapping relationship; and an outsole secured to the lower surface of said heel member and said -platform member.

6. The method of constructing a shoe, which includes the steps of: sewing the forward portion of a liner to a fitted upper forwardly of the shank with the upper surface of said liner contacting the inner surface of said upper; sewing a half platform cover to said upper adiacent its lower edge and forwardly of the shank with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper; lasting the upper rearwardly of the shank to an insert projecting under the forward portion of said liner leveling the bottom of said insert between the lasted edges of said upper with a filler; securing the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a half platform; securing a cover to a wedge heel; attaching the covered wedge heel to said insert and the inturned edges of said upper; securing the ends of said half platform cover to said covered wedge heel: securing an outsole to the lower surface of said wedge heel and half platform; and securing the rearward portion of said liner to the upper surface of said insert.

7. The method of constructing a shoe, which includes the steps of: sewing the forward portion of a liner and a platform cover to an upper adjacent its lower edge forwardly of the shank, with the upper surface of the liner contacting the inner surface of said upper and with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper; lasting the upper rearwardly of the shank to a shank member pro- .iecting under the forward portion of said liner:

leveling the bottom of said shank member between the lasted edges of said upper with a filler; securing the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a half platform; attaching a wedge heel to said shank member and the intumed edges of said upper; securing the ends of said half platform cover to said wedge heel; securing an outsole to the lower surface of said wedge heel and half platform; and Positioning the rearward portion of said liner above said shank member.

II. The method of constructing a shoe, which includes the steps of: securing the forward portion of a liner and a platform cover to an upper adjacent its lower edge forwardly of the shank, with the upper surface of the liner contacting the inner surface of said upper and with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper: lasting the upper rearward]: of the shank to a shank member proiecting under the forward portion of said liner; leveling the bottom ofsaidshankmemberbetween thelastededgesofsaidupperwitha filler; securing the lower edges of said cover to the lower siu'faee of a half platform: securing a wedge heel to said shank member and the inturned edges of said upper; securing the ends ofsaidcovertosaidwedgeheel: securingan outsole to the lower surface of said wedge heel and half platform; and positioning the rearward portion of said liner above said shank member.

9. The method of constructing a shoe, which includes the steps of: sewing the forward portion of a liner and a platform cover to an upper adjacent its lower edge forwardly of the shank, with the upper surface of the liner contacting the inner surface of said upper and with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper; positioning said upper,

liner, and cover upon a last; lasting the upper rearwardly of the shank to an insert projecting under the forward portion of said liner; leveling the bottom of said insert between the lasted edges of said upper with a filler; securing the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a platform; securing a cover to a wedge heel; attaching the covered wedge heel to said insert and the inturned edges of said upper and said platform; securing the ends of said platform cover to said covered wedge heel; securing an outsole to the lower surface of said wedge heel and platform; and securing the rearward portion of said liner above said insert.

10. The method of constructing a shoe, which includes the steps of: sewing the forward portion of a liner and a platform cover to an upper adjacent its lower edge forwardly of the shank, with the upper surface of the liner contacting the inner surface of said upper and with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper; positioning said upper. liner, and cover upon a last; lasting the upper rearwardly of the shank to an insert p jectin under the forward portion of said liner; leveling the bottom of said insert between the lasted edges of said upper with a filler; securing the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a platform; securing a cover to a 'wedge heel; attaching the covered wedge heel to said insert and the inturned edges of said upper and said platform; securing the ends of said platform cover to said covered wedge heel; and securing an outsole to the lower surface of said wedge heel and platform.

11. The method of constructing a shoe, which includes the steps of sewing a platform cover and the forward portion of a liner to a fitted upper adjacent its lower edge with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper and the upper surface of said liner contacting the inner surface of said upper; positioning said upper upon a last; lasting said upper rearwardly of the shank to an insert projecting beneath said liner: securing the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a platform; securing a wedge heel to said insert and said platform and said platform cover; and securing an outsole to said wedge heel and platform.

12. The method of constructing a shoe. which includes the steps of: sewing a liner to an upper with the upper surface of said liner contacting the inner surfaceof said upper; sewing a platform cover to said upper with the outer surface of said cover contacting the outer surface of said upper: positioning said upper upon a last: lasting said upper rearwardly of the shank to an insert projecting beneath said liner: cementing the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a platform: securing a wedge heel to said insert and said platform and said platform cover; and securing an outsole to said wedge heel and platform.

13. The method of constructinl a shoe. which includes the steps of: sewinl the forward portion of a liner to a fitted upper forwardly of the shank with the upper surface of said liner adjacent the inner surface of said upper; sewin: a half platform cover to said upper adjacent its lower edge and forwardly of the shank with the outer surface of said cover adjacent the outer surface of said upper; lasting the upper rearwardly of the shank to an insert projecting under the forward portion of said liner, said laste portion of said upper extending forwardly of the ends of said half platform cover; cementin: the lower edges of said cover to the lower surface of a half platform; securing a heel beneath said insert and the inturned edles of said upper; cementing the ends of said half platform cover to said heel; and cementing an outsole to the lower surface of said heel and hell platform.

14. The method of constructing a shoe. which includes the steps of: securing the forward portion of a liner and a platform cover to an upper adjacent its lower edge forwardly of the heel portion, with the upper surface of the liner adjacent the inner surface of said upper and with the outer surface of said cover adjacent the outer surface of said upper: lasting the upper at the heel portion thereof to a shank member projecting under said liner; securing the lower edges of said cover under a half platform; securing a wedge heel beneath said shank member and the intumed edges of said upper; and securing an outsole beneath said wedge heel and said half platform.

OSCAR FERN. 

